My drawing board is currently covered in a mix of art supplies and aggressively pungent deli meats.
I’ve got a puddle of Higgins ink dangerously close to a towering pastrami on rye, and my entire apartment smells of mustard. Outside my window, a sanitation truck is violently reversing down 9th Avenue. The floorboards are vibrating. On my monitor, looking entirely too relaxed for a man navigating the crazy New York City culinary scene, sits Ben Gollan, a fellow Aussie expat making a go of it in the big smoke.
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Ben’s the undisputed Sandwich Tour King of New York. He runs a wildly successful walking tour company called ‘A Man and His Sandwich’, where he guides people through the absolute best, most artery-clogging delis in the five boroughs. But the thing that always short-circuits my brain about Ben isn’t his encyclopaedic knowledge of cured meats. It’s his backstory.
It’s always deeply comforting to talk to another expat. We spent a significant portion of the hour just being two Australians with thick accents, complaining loudly about the structural inefficiencies of New York City while simultaneously admitting we’d never live anywhere else.
We got into the gritty reality of the New York hustle. If you’re an Aussie expat, you know the exact cultural whiplash we’re talking about. Back home, we have this insidious thing called the tall poppy syndrome. If you try something outside the box, people immediately try to cut you down. Ben mentioned that when he goes back to Australia and tells people he runs sandwich tours, they laugh and ask what his real job is. But here in New York? People look at him and say, “That’s a great idea, I bet you’re the best.”
The city runs on that delusional, infectious encouragement. It’s the only place where a hungover, out-of-work chef from South Africa can stare at leftover Indian paratha bread and some banh mi scraps in his fridge, accidentally invent a pulled-pork paratha taco, and suddenly end up running three wildly lucrative storefronts. (That’s the true story of Goa Taco, by the way. A legendary Lower East Side staple born entirely out of desperation and a hangover).
As I mentioned, Ben’s a fellow expat Australian. Back in Sydney, he was a crisply dressed corporate lawyer working for the government. He traded the courtroom for the chaotic, unforgiving streets of New York back in 2016, all to support his wife’s career. Somewhere along the line, a single pastrami sandwich at a now-defunct East Village deli completely derailed his professional trajectory. He ate the sandwich, had a culinary epiphany, and decided he was going to dedicate his life to the space between two pieces of bread.
There’s something deeply terrifying about abandoning a stable, lucrative law career to yell about sandwiches on a Brooklyn sidewalk. But it’s the kind of unhinged creative pivot I completely admire...
During our Draw Me Anything session, I set myself the absurd task of drawing a photorealistic pastrami sandwich while we talked. I quickly realised that drawing bread’s a nightmare. Bread’s just a chaotic sponge. You try to capture the crust with pilot pen, and it just looks like a diseased rock.
Ben’s got this incredible, magnetic energy. You can see exactly why his tours are perpetually sold out. The live chat was losing its collective mind over his deli recommendations. You could feel the audience getting hungry through the screen…
